PAKBARA PARADISO IN PERIL

Over the weekend, we went to the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) to check out the Pakbara Paradiso exhibit. The exhibit featured photographs of the communities, livelihoods and ecosystems under threat by a deep sea port construction project planned for Thailand's southern Satun province.

The photos conveyed sleepy fishing villages, with communities deeply connected to the land and sea they rely on for their food security and income. They also showcased crystal clear waters and phenomenal marine life, including richly hued coral, that will be displaced or lost once construction of the Pak Bara port is complete.

A lecturer from a local university told us that when the proposal for the deep sea port was originally conceived several years ago, it was to increase Thailand's regional competitiveness. However, there are now several deep sea ports in Southeast Asia that renders the data the proposal is based on invalid. He lamented, "The government is not thinking about the long-term."

Near the intended port are the Tarutao and Petra Marine National Parks which attract increasing numbers of eco-tourists annually. Tarutao Marine Park is estimated to be home to a quarter of the world's tropical fish species. As noted in the Bangkok Post, "The plan for the seaport requires authorities to remove 4,734 rai (1,800 acres) from the Petra Marine National Park. The area around Tarutao Marine National Park - including up-and-coming tourist magnets such as Koh Lipe...will be an area for oil and cargo liners."

A science teacher from a local school in Satun was eager to show us the photos of the neon colored coral and vibrant marine life in his province. He explained that there were even fossils dating back to the Paleolithic era around the area where the seaport will be constructed. In typical Thai style, he delivered bad news with a chuckle, "If you have never been, you must visit Satun and see the coral. It may be gone soon!"

As a predominantly Buddhist country, the concept of impermanence is deeply ingrained in Thai society. Nothing lasts forever, all will change. While this may be true, many know there are smarter, more sustainable ways of bringing about positive changes in both the short- and long-term. The longer we continue orienting our idea of development around economic growth, industrial development and competitiveness, the more we are telling younger generations that traditional ways of life, environmental sustainability and biodiversity conservation are not priorities.

"This land is your land and this land is my land, sure, but the world is run by those 

that never listen to music anyway" - Bob Dylan

(Photos by photographers at the Pakbara Paradiso exhibit; woodcut print by an artist at the exhibit)

TOFU IN THAI RED CURRY SAUCE

Instead of sleeping in until noon this Sunday as our bodies demanded from us, we woke up early and slogged our way across town to the famous Blue Elephant Thai Cooking School. The Blue Elephant is Thailand's version of Le Cordon Bleu and offers a range of classes to suit everyone, from beginners to serious foodies to professionals, interested in Thai cooking. And lucky me, I received a half-day class from Pem last week as a birthday present!

After a brief market tour in Saphan Kwai, we were given a brief demonstration before we got down to chopping herbs, pounding curry paste and mixing our first dish of the day - red curry sauce. The Blue Elephant's original recipe calls for tilapia, or plaa tub tim, but we made a vegan version with tofu.

Thai cuisine is renowned for its complexity of flavors in a single dish and this is a glorious example of how sweet, salty and spicy come together. Of the four dishes we made, this is the one that disappeared fastest. Check out the recipe below!

Several of these ingredients are the essential building blocks of flavor in Thai cooking - fresh chillies, kaffir lime leaves, coconut milk, dried shrimp and fish sauce. You can substitute the fish sauce for soy sauce and omit the dried shrimp to keep it vegan.

Serves 2

Ingredients:
1 tb vegetable oil
1 tb red curry paste (either homemade or pre-prepared)*
70 ml coconut milk
15 leaves sweet basil, julienned
1 tb cream of coconut milk (which can be skimmed from the top of separated coconut milk)
4 kaffir lime leaves, julienned
1 big red chili, de-seeded and finely sliced
80 grams firm tofu, cut into bite-size squares and pre-stir-fried until cooked through
1 tb palm sugar (or regular white sugar)
1 tb soy sauce

Method:
1) Place the sliced red chili into a cup of water to curl while you cook. This will serve as a garnish.
2) Heat the oil in the wok until hot. Add the red curry paste and stir-fry until an aroma develops.
3) Slowly incorporate the coconut milk into the red curry paste.
4) Add the sugar and soy sauce and stir-fry for a few more seconds.
5) Add about three-quarters of the sweet basil and half of the kaffir lime leaves into the wok. Save the rest of the herbs for garnishing.
6) Add the tofu and any veggies you may want to add (baby corn or mushrooms would work well) and let simmer for a few minutes.
7) Remove from heat and place in serving dish. Spoon cream of coconut milk on top and then garnish with the chili curls, kaffir lime and basil leaves.
8) Enjoy with mixed brown and white rice!

*A note on red curry paste: There are several options of pre-prepared red curry paste these days which are huge time and energy savers. The only downside is that many often contain shrimp paste. Be sure to check ingredients on the label, or if you're feeling adventurous, try making your own using the recipe below! Many of these spices, including Blue Elephant products, can be found at The Gourmet Market or Spice Story at Siam Paragon.

5 dried big red chilies, soaked in water for fifteen minutes
1 coriander root
1/2 tb kaffir lime zest
1/2 tb galangal, finely sliced
1 and 1/2 tb lemongrass, finely sliced
5 cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
4 shallots, roughly chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon roasted cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon roasted coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon white pepper powder

Method:
1) Squeeze excess water from the chillies.
2) Place all ingredients in food processor for a quick and easy red curry paste. Alternatively, ground by hand using a mortar and pestle for a nice aroma, putting in the dry ingredients first and then the wet (garlic, galangal, shallots).

This red curry paste will keep in an airtight container for about two weeks, or for one month in the freezer.

TGIF

"Humans - despite their artistic pretensions, their sophistication, and their many accomplishments - owe their existence to a six-inch layer of topsoil and the fact that it rains." 

- Source Unknown

THIRSTY THURSDAYS

... Thirsty for knowledge, that is!

Some links from around the interwebs for your reading pleasure -

Curious about what "eating antipodean" means? Check out these culinary adventures trying dishes from the other side of the globe (including my attempts at making Ecuadorian food in Bangkok!) in "Around the World in 18 Plates".

With temperatures soaring these last couple weeks, I haven't had much energy to cook or eat elaborately but this muhammara (walnut and red pepper spread) recipe looks easy enough to attempt for a light dinner with a glass of nice, crisp rose. 

The BBC's Your Life on Earth will tell you how the world has changed since you were born. Since I was born 28 years ago, over 2.2 billion people have joined this planet, the number of endangered plant species has doubled and sea levels have risen eight cm. It's not all dire straights though! Apparently all sorts of creatures like the Siamese crocodile and the black rhino were rediscovered and saved from extinction and carbon intensity has decreased by 13%. 

It turns out that being boring may be the way to go when it comes to climate change documentaries.

If you're stuck in the Big Mango this weekend, but want a change of scenery, head to the BACC and check out the Pakbara Paradiso exhibit of stunning photos highlighting the way of life under threat by the construction of the Pak Bara deep sea port. Featuring talks, performance art and music from this Friday - Sunday only.

All for now. Stay (knowledge) thirsty, my friends!

(Photo taken by Noppasin Sukswasdi, featured in Pakbara Paradiso)

HAPPY EARTH DAY!

When one tugs at a single thing in nature,

he finds it attached to the rest of the world. 

- John Muir

Did you know that Earth Day comes just one day after John Muir's birthday? John Muir, early 20th century naturalist and co-founder of the Sierra Club, was born 177 years ago on April 21, 1838. We have him to thank for the preservation of the Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks in the U.S.!

(The photo above is from the most serene breakfast setting I've ever experienced, in a treehouse perched atop a lush forest outside of Chiang Mai. Highly recommended for anyone who needs to escape the concrete jungle for awhile!)

THE IMPORTANCE OF SANUK

Well, I made it to the other side of Songkran 2558* relatively unscathed. Just got an earful, literally, after someone got me with their long-range water gun as I navigated the crowds at the BTS yesterday.

I'll have to admit, it's difficult to read news about the drought-induced water shortages in California while this entire country is splashing, dumping, dunking, firing, hosing water at each other for three straight days. Though there is something to be said about an annual festival that largely involves brightly colored aloha shirts and some serious water guns. 

In Thai class last week, we were talking about Songkran and our teacher asked us to share what festivals we have in our home countries. With fellow students from Russia, Japan, and Germany, there were some interesting festivals but none quite compared to Songkran. Our teacher asked brightly, "So what do people in your country do for your festival?"

"Eat a lot of food and watch football." (U.S. Thanksgiving)

"Make special food and pray to our ancestors." (Japan Summer Festival)

"Drink a lot of beer." (German Oktoberfest)

The teacher's smile faded as she gently asked, "Is that all?" 

Granted our Thai vocabulary was limited, but she basically was saying, none of you have national festivals where you get to run amok for three days laying siege to the streets with water guns? Where is your national sense of fun?

And fun, or sanuk, one quickly learns is a huge, mostly wonderful, part of Thai culture. If a national water festival every year doesn't convince you, you'll eventually realize that making sure sanuk is had by all is a national pastime for Thais. Occasionally, always being enthusiastic and up for a good time can get tiring for foreigners but your Thai family, friends and colleagues always mean well. Just keep an open mind and an easy smile, and always remember, nothing gets in the way of sanuk. Nothing. 

*Thais follow the Buddhist Calendar Year, which is currently in the year 2558. It's really neat to see on your Thai work permit or driver's license that your birthday is 500 years in the future. 

HAPPY SONGKRAN!

Around this time every year, major watergun battles spontaneously erupt across the country in celebration of the Buddhist New Year, or what Thais call Songkran. For three full days, you cannot expect to leave your house without bracing for a splash of ice cold water from festive neighbors or getting white paste smeared on your cheeks. Young and old, rich and poor, Thai and foreign - no one is off limits for a little len nam, or water play. After all, average temperatures during this season are around the mid to high 30's (Celsius) and this festival originated in the time before A/C. So, time to grab a drink, fill your water gun and chill.

Sawatdi Pii Mai and have a fun, safe Songkran!

NEW YEAR, NEW BLOG

Welcome to Little Greenhouse in the Big Mango, a new blog chronicling my pursuit of a more sustainable urban lifestyle. I've lived in major cities almost all my life and can't imagine living anywhere else. But it's clear that as more of the human population moves to cities, we are going to have to figure out better ways to share an increasingly overcrowded, overheated and over-exploited planet.

Over the past year or so, through my work, I have become more aware of the impacts that climate change will have on our environment and ultimately, on ourselves. I believe that our own individual lives and the way we lead them are as connected to the issue as are the actions (or inaction) of governments and corporations. As much as we should keep urging the big players to make big changes, we also must make our own changes which may not only be better for our collective future, but equally as good for ourselves today.

Naturally, Wendell Berry offers a far more eloquent explanation of what I'm attempting to say:

"If we think the future damage of climate change to the environment is a big problem only solvable by a big solution, then thinking or doing something in particular becomes more difficult, perhaps impossible. 

It is true that changes in governmental policy, if the changes were made according to the right principles, would have to be rated as big solutions. Such big solutions surely would help, and a number of times I have tramped the streets to promote them... But to wait for good sense from the government only displaces good sense into the future, where it is of no use to anybody and is soon overcome by prophesies of doom. 

On the contrary, so few as just one of us can save energy right now by self-control, careful thought and remembering the lost virtue of frugality. Spending less, burning less, traveling less may be a relief. A cooler, slower life may make us happier, more present to ourselves, and to others who need us to be present. " 

Wise words. But Wendell Berry lives on a farm in Kentucky while I live in the heart of the Asian megacity of Bangkok. Mr. Berry is in his late seventies and has lived most of his life in a world without personal computers, let alone smartphones. I experienced my first computer by the age of ten, a personal cellphone at 14 and a smartphone at 22. Today, 50% of 11-yr-olds in the U.S. have their own cellphone. By the year 2020, perhaps newborns will be assigned their own infant-sized Apple Watch to track their vitals in hospital nurseries.

At the same time, if the popularity of post-apocalyptic YA literature says anything, I think it would be that younger generations, consciously or subconsciously, are deeply concerned about the future of our planet and of human society. As one YA novelist puts it, “I think teens are particularly aware of this, perhaps because they’re not so invested in the status quo. Or perhaps because this is the world they’re inheriting, and they’re [upset] that we’re trashing it. So there’s a thread of anxiety running through our culture.”

So the question is, how do we younger generations continue our wired, urban lives in a way that has less negative impact on our planet?

This is the main question driving this blog. My intention here is to chronicle my journey trying to answer this question, as well as share slices of my life in the one and only Big Mango. 

I hope you enjoy!

Pictured above is a sacred tree in my Sukhumvit neighborhood, wrapped in multi-colored swaths of cloth denoting it as particularly powerful spirit.